Wednesday, August 20, 2014

A few pics that didn't make it...

Apparently a few pics didn't make it to the last Nepal update, here they are:


On the lake at Pokhara.



More on Nepal

Somehow a whole month has passed in Nepal, and it has been one of the most unique experiences of our trip so far. It is certainly the place most different from California, and it has given us a brilliant picture of why SouthEast Asia has such an allure for travelers around the world.
     It is impossibly green in the natural areas, and full of chaotic, colorful noises in the cities. The people in general are probably the friendliest we have met anywhere *besides Canadians, eh?* and the way the say hello, 'Namaste', meaning 'I recognize the divine in you', shows how deeply the Budhhist and Hindu roots are here. Although practicaly everyone speaks good or better English (again the best in general of anywhere we've been so far, aherm Turkey cough FranceItaly), it seems like their own culture has been only minimally affected by the West. It is actually politically and economically very influenced more by neighboring India than anywhere else. Beyond the USA flag, USA city state city, angry birds of facebook T shirts-people seem to LOVE wearing American flag/city shirts in every country) and the foreign foods largely available, it still feels altogether different. Mini buses/vans with 3 wheels stuffed to the gills with people; people on bicycles selling baby chickens from the back in large circular wicker baskets; delivery trucks aimed to out-do each other in colorful/religious decorations on the windshield and front; shrines everywhere with red powder rubbed into them; bald Tibetan monks walking into the pharmacy wearing their traditional red and yellow robes; beloved local or Indian pop stars screechy, nasally voices singing over the bus radio stations as we stand with our neck crooked because their Nepali sized person bus ceiling is far too low for our Western head. These are a few examples of things we encounter mostly everyday, and are all part of the unique charm of SE Asia.
     We started our time here staying at a Christian church in a quiet, green part of Kathmandu-Ranibu. The people greeted us with more warmth and hospitality than we'd feel on Christmas morning, and their continued generosity was truly astonishing. Offering everything they have to us, total strangers, when they have so little, was a deeply humbling experience and a beautiful example that I want to carry with us. After being picked up at the airport with traditional scarves given to honored guests, we came back to a hot ready meal and a prepared room of our own. While everyone there was very kind, due to English limitations we mainly connected with the family we stayed with, Muna and her 13 year old son Yabez. We played cards and guitar, made fantastic curry every lunch and dinner, visited church members and shared life together. We also spent time with the pastor Harun. He is a very hard working person, whose focus is on caring for and reaching the remote people of the Himalayas through his ministry Reach Himalayas. Click on the link to check it out more! He crosses rivers and climbs mountains to help bring clean, sustainable water to villages and to share the love of God with them. Needless to say, he was quite the dynamic leader.
     After 2 weeks there, we decided to head for the #1 tourist destination in Nepal: Pokhara. During winter and high tourist season, a whole 27,000ft Himalayan mountain range is reflected on a 2000ft lake, and is the main place people to start trekking from. During monsoon season, when we were there, your'e lucky to see any mountains (we saw a few twice!) and the leeches make trekking less fun. Nevertheless, we rented an apartment and had a terrific time exploring caves, renting scooters and boats, and putting around town for 2 weeks. And the prices are pretty great-think $15/night for  2 bed/2 bath/kitchen/tv apartment, $6 for a 6-7 hr bus ride, or $10 for renting a scooter for a day. The power is always a factor when choosing restaurants or a place to stay though, as it's cut a scattered 6 hrs/day throughout the country. You can imagine what it does to meat and dairy in 30 degree C weather =/
          We are staying near the airport tonight in a fabulous area, filled with monestaries, stupas and little streets to explore, and our flight to India leaves at 11pm tomorrow. This place is topping the list of 'return to' destinations, and we may find ourselves back in fall when the weather improves and the mountains are shining clear. In the meantime, Nepal has been a perfect way to start our Asian part of the trip, and if the rest is anything like this, we'll be 2 lucky turtles for the next several months!


Crossing the river from the church to the other side of town. After heavy rains the river can become impassable, but when it's anywhere up to belly high most people will traverse it for work, school, or errands.

Water buffalo, aka yaks, make up for the lack of beef in the local diet, and they love lazing in water to cool off.

Rice patties everywhere!




The pastor Harun, in black, bought us a cake for our 4 year anniversary! It was such a fun way to celebrate.

Yzbez eagerly waiting to eat dinner, which looked like this just about every night.


A traditional food of Nepal-momo, aka, dumplings. Vegetarian, chicken, yak, they come in lots of varieties but the spicy sauce is what makes them uniquely tasty. They are also crazy cheap!


The monument dedicated to the mountaineers who have lost their lives over the years in their quests, outside the International Mountain Museum in Pokhara.

Looking pretty comfortable for the top of Everest!





There are bells rung at temples all the time, but this one, situated on a tiny island in the middle of the lake at Pokhara, was totally surrounded by them!




From the lake at Pokhara.

The best of mountain views we got during our 2 week stay at Pokhara. This was the view from our apartment balcony!

Selling chicks from your bike....why not?

I LOVE these things! They're 'tractors' for hire, and use a lawn mower-like front attached to a flat bed back. They are absolutely everywhere, and are the main way people transport heavy things during construction.

A blurry but perfect example of the colorful delivery trucks seen everywhere.

"See you, Don't touch me"

Another favorite, the 3 wheeler! Usually jam packed with people crunched over each other, sometimes with some people hanging off of the back and holding on to the roof.
One of the many shrines you see with the standard red additions.
We got to ride an elephant in the Kathmandu zoo, the only zoo in Nepal, and afterwards had an amazing opportunity to connect with it, just touching its trunk and being close enough to rub eyelashes. I will never forget looking into those beautiful eyes.

     We are staying near the airport tonight in a fabulous area, filled with monestaries, stupas and little streets to explore, and our flight to India leaves at 11pm tomorrow. This place is topping the list of 'return to' destinations, and we may find ourselves back in fall when the weather improves and the mountains are shining clear. In the meantime, Nepal has been a perfect way to start our Asian part of the trip, and if the rest is anything like this, we'll be 2 lucky turtles for the next several months!

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Feeling Like Neo in Nepal

"Have you ever felt that you were living in a dream world?" This quote from the Matrix, and its subsequent implications, sum up about how I (Austin) feel in Nepal. Maybe the jet lag hasn't worn off after a week, or perhaps the microbes from the less than sanitary food have crept into my brain, but for now life feels like a dream. Probably the cause of my other world experience is the vast gap of culture and sensation here from anything we have seen. Colors and aromas overwhelm the senses; some houses are painted neon blue or green or orange; bright curry spices pop off the shelves of local shops; buses sport arrays of decoration and color in addition to figures of Hindu gods. The air is always dancing in one's nostrils, be it the sweet waft of spices, drawing the stomach out of its cavern, or the pungent aroma of cows and water buffalos, or the putrid puff of thick smoke from buses off the page of a Sunday cartoon. People wander through Kathmandu in plethora: short in height, mostly poor, and full of the most interesting facial shapes and expressions. Kindra and I feel like giants, as we take on new sensations every day, wondering when we will wake up. Tractors zoom by, women carry large buckets of fresh picked rice across their backs and strapped to their foreheads. Cars and motorcycles move like enormous, smogy ants though intersections, and crossing the street is an art form that seems like it could cost one his life. Where are we?

Our accommodation is a brand new trip experience as well: we are staying at a small church, with a Nepali mother and teenage son living here also and cooking delicious curries for dinner. They don't have much money or possessions; the refrigerator, computer, bookshelf or sofa are luxuries not present; we eat on the floor and waste not a grain of rice. Yet we are content, and so are they; Munna and her son Yabitz are like family to us already, and their simple, genuine, kind spirits provide more warmth to us than any community we have found thus far.

Every day varies but is full, perhaps we are attending a prayer meeting, or strolling along the local river to laugh as naked boys jump in deep pools next to lazy water buffalos. Or maybe I am helping the pastor of the church edit his newsletters so they appear 'more American.' Pastor Harun's story of becoming a Christian is moving: his family sold most of their possessions to heal their sick mom, trying every witch doctor and Hindi remedy they could get their hands on. Upon hearing of a passing evangelist in the neighborhood, they brought him to their house, and his prayers for her health released the healing other remedies couldn't. The family converted joyfully to Christianity, and the now pastor left behind a lucrative trekking business to spend his life's efforts bringing food, clean water and Jesus to impoverished regions of Nepal.

The passions of this church are not currently our focus on this more contemplative and adventure oriented journey we are on, but we feel like family here, and that is unusual for us to find such a place. So our dream world continues, in this exotic land of Nepal, maybe one day I will wake up, but for now, dreaming is enough.