Monday, July 1, 2013

Beaches, Bicycles, and Jazz




 Kindra says: Corsica. To most Europeans, this word evokes images of dramatic mountains meeting turquoise warm waters, smells of fresh breads and pastries being baked by the local boulageries, sounds of music festivals floating in the air, and tastes of Pietra beer, the local amber beer of Corsica. To most Americans, this word evokes, at best, some thought of a corset perhaps, and at worst, a ringing “what the hell is that?”


The official, delicious beer of Corsica with the Tour de France playing in the background

Austin and I have had the distinct privilege of staying on Corsica exploring the western coast for the past 10 days, and are certainly the better for it. Although we weren’t terribly impressed in Bastia where our ferry landed, we had only to board “The Trembler”, what the locals call the train (for good reason, it shakes so badly!) to have our opinion totally reversed. The soaring sheer mountains and the tropical looking greenery captured our hearts instantly.  We didn’t get a chance to see the semi-wild pigs that roam the island freely and apparently stop most train rides, but the scenery made up for the disappointment every time. When we got off the Trembler at Calvi, tired from our traveling day, we were greeted with a small town feel, a long white sand beach, and live jazz music walking through the streets-and we smiled at each other, knowing we had found a special place for us. We ended up staying in Calvi for 5 nights-2 longer than expected, thanks to us discovering the truth of what other travelers have said about the local bus- “it can be one of the most frustrating experiences of your entire life, so avoid it at all costs if at all possible,”- but worth it. We met new Austrian friends, found our local best food place (most delicious herb quiche in the universe!), lounged at the beach, snorkeled, and even got to play on what can only be described as a Wipeout-esque inflated water playground, which was easily one of the most fun things we have done ever.

A view from 'The Trembler'-you just see all the places you want to go and explore as you ride through the island


The Cali beach


Calvi sunset

The amazing Wipeout reminiscent playground! The big kids one was in the background-you better believe we climbed up that huge white rock wall and jumped off the top!

To top it all off, little did we know that not only was it the 27th annual Calvi Jazz Festival, with a different jazz band playing at the harbor for free every night for 5 nights and culminating with a Glenn Miller Tribute Big Band show on the beach, at the base of the castle, but it was ALSO the Tour de France! Coming to Corsica for the first time in history for the 100th anniversary of the race, starting the day before we left the island. Perfect timing or what!!

A volunteer percussion only energy filled part of the Calvi Jazz Festival that would play every night through the streets




An upbeat jazz group that would play through the streets after the more official performances of the evening were over.

From Calvi, we *finally* caught the but to the tiny town of Osani, meeting more friends on the way, to hike in 7 km to the renowned town of Girolata. We stayed there 2 nights, all the more appreciative of the quiet and solitude after being in fun but slightly crowded and noisy Calvi. Even though it was windier than should be allowed in the Med for that first half of our time on the island, in Girolata we marveled at the red towering faces of Scandola, a World UNESCO sight, and had a spectacular hike in and out. We even met an Italian family on our hike out, and they gave us a ride on the cliff hugging, winding, one/two ? way roads to our next stop- Porto! After our 2 nights there, we finished it off by heading back into the wild, but this time to the renowned mountains. Although the waterfall we hiked to wasn’t the most memorable we’ve seen, our time in the mountains was a needed, peaceful place, where we both had opportunities to enjoy extended time connecting with God and each other.
Our campsite in Girolata


Little, beautiful Girolata
While in Girolata we had a little climbing adventure!!


Finally, we got to see the Tour de France on day 1! It was a very flat stage, so they whizzed by us in all of about 15 seconds, but the adrenaline and energy from the caravan giving away free stuff, the crowd’s excitement and the rush of the pelaton finally  rushing by us was totally worth it. For our grand finale we got to camp for 1 night on Bastia on the beach, where we had 1 final swim in the Med, and after saying I wanted to  every since Spain, I FINALLY was brave enough to do beach the European way ; ) If only for 15 minutes.... 

All our free caravan goodies
Waiting for the riders with our official gear
And there they were! It was over so fast, but such a rush!

And here I sit, on the ferry heading back to Italy as we make our way to Milan on public transportation today and prepare to meet Austin’s mom Vicki tomorrow! I already miss France so much, the culture our hearts have now fallen in love with on 2 separate occasions, the language I at least partially speak and understand and food I am familiar with. But we can say this much about our time in Corsica-we are going back, and want to take everyone with us!

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